Now its instant jumps to the next fuel level of the tank I select. As soon as I turned the key on and tried to change the tank the fuel gauge jumped over to the full level. There you should find a pressure release valve, that looks similar to a air nipple used to air up car tires. When I switch it from tank to tank the fuel gauge does change from tank to tank so I don't think the valve is the problem. These are notorious for getting corroded and falling off.
I have made one up from parts purchased from the local Home Depot. The test light should come on for just two seconds each time the key is cycled to on. Not long ago I bought a used 1987 Chevrolet R10 pickup. I have other thoughts and ideas to throw your way. Dad came out while I was at work and changed it in the snow and cold. It is not constantly energized like the 80-back. If someone has replaced this hose and did not use a good quality piece of hose it will get soft and kinda melt away because it is submerged in gas all the time.
Can I check fuel pressure by cracking a line somewhere? Sounds like Aiden knows that truck well! There is a main ring that is threaded that you turn counter clockwise and the whole fuel pump assembly will come right out. You put battery voltage to this wire and it starts the pump. If no power at the connector, try to listen for the pump relay clicking when the key is cycled, it should be on the firewall on the passenger side I think? Now you are not pumping out massive amounts of fuel onto hot engine parts. Fuel pickup screen in the tank is clogged. I put gas right in the carb and it fired right away but died, i checked the fuel lines to the carb and there ok.
I also noticed that theres a fuel line from a tank i think that goes to the fuel pump but isnt attached to anyhting its just hanging by the fuel line thats to the pump. I will get a better look tomorrow and see where it leads. It had 2-16 gallon tanks. My left tank works and as soon as you flip it to the right tank the truck dies. By this time the engine should have started or spun enough to get oil pressure. Use a tranny jack to support the tank and unbolt the two… All you need to do is: remove the fuel lines on the fuel pump, remove the two bolts holding the pump in, than the fuel pump will just fall out.
Its great when you can get help like the guys on here, chip in and share answers and tips. The tank selector switch on the dash when changed does not change the gauge indicator. I switch it back and the right one smooths out. If it was selected to the non-default tank, it would switch back over once the ignition was turned back on. I'm curious, is pump power switched through the tank valve? Bad cutover device The hose that connects the output of the fuel pump to the metal supply line going out of the tank has gone bad. Simultaneously, the contact s for the sender opens for the previous tank and closes for the selected tank. Hope what I have shared has help someone else to.
Obviously, at that point, I have to switch back to the other tank. When you replace them use Viton o-rings typically brown in color and available from many auto parts stores and Harbor Freight. I was 17 at the time. Can he rent or borrow a fuel pressure tester from a parts store to check? The fue … l pump is right on top the tank. Based on this statement I think the power for the left pump is getting switched. I know I had a small engine 0 rings swell up on me on my lawn mower. If it doesn't than the pump is toast.
Also, he replaced all the fuel lines. There's possibly varnish or even water froze in the system in places like the fuel pump impeller? You can then pump the fuel out using the existing line. I think the next thing I will do is change the switching unit under the passenger seat by the right tank. Engine oil pressure activates the switch on the top back of the engine. Don Fuel problems in tanks Thanks Don for your information. I have a 1983 K30 that runs factory dual tanks.
If you are installing a mechanical gauge you need to replace the sending unit down by the oil filter, not the switch on the top of the engine. I took out the sending unit. I do have a replacment fuel pump im hoping will work if mines dead but i need a new fuel line to the carb for that one to work. Have him listen for the relay and pump activating when he turns the key to On and Start. On an 87 with fuel injection the fuel tank selector valve switches four things, supply line, return line, pump electrical feed, and the gauge lead. Have you checked for spark or did you get stuck on the first thing you found missing? If you have any questions, please feel free to.
As for the one you owe me, Michelob Ultra please. Maybe your valve is not fully switching, like mine. Is there a way to check the pump without removing the tank? The valve was a solenoid. The switches for these are two position with momentary spring depression for each, to momentarily energize the valve. The pump comes out by twisting a ring. If not il try puting gas in a can and puting it right to the fuel pump. If it's been 6 months ago, then you had summer fuel in the tank which has more water in it.