The symptoms are similar to what you are describing. To , all you wish to try to to is to fastidiously take away the present performer and peel the previous performer material. And up until now I have done all of my own servicing. I bought 70's versions so they weren't too clogged up with stuff about the more modern versions. The Honda shop manual, which I picked up directly from Helm, has this generic info at the beginning but also has supplements for each specific year and model in the back that shows the differences plus the individual specs. I agree with your observations.
To register, all you have to do is to input the year, make, and model of your car in the Chilton site. If you're going to put in a new transmission, either manual will be fine. Omits the engine torque specification page. I mean everyone here is constantly doing maintenance on their bikes and with just about everyone having a digital camera, I'm sure we could put together some great stuff. With respect to the front forks and handlebar assemblies, Haynes had 68 photographs and drawings compared to Clymer's 52. One piece of advice, if you order one try to find out the published year to make sure it covers your bike.
The manual could use an update with improved quality of photographs and procedural steps expanded on some of the topics covered. Now which is the better auto repair manual? Pictures and diagrams are not a bad thing to have. Clymer did have a thumb tab listing aligned with their respective tabs. And the two explain things differently, and sometimes both explanations together are better than either one by itself. I find them very similar, too close to really tell apart. ~ ~ ~ jaknight ~ ~ ~ Whatever you do, don't buy the Cycleserv version.
Unfortunately, once you get into wiring diagrams, connections, data codes. Their writing style is so, there is no other way to put it, British. I like the Haynes manuals as opposed to chiltons. Haynes says remove the exhaust silencers, the left shock absorber and the swing arm! Contrary to popular opinion, they stated not to use 20W50 oil because it might make the clutch slip. If you're going to put on an undertail and a slip-on pipe, not sure a repair manual will really help.
Tries to cover pretty much every 2V belted Duc ever made, and ends up offering little more than general guidelines that you could probably figure out yourself. If you don't know what you are doing though, you are better just taking the car to a mechanic. Here is how it turned out. . I've seen that Haynes are not keeping up with the times. Some say Chilton is better than Haynes; others claim the other way around.
Focus on a particular model for a limited number of production years means it is nearly as comprehensive as Chilton - but only for that vehicle! Otherwise, they are about the same on all the hoses, tank bolts, wiring and stuff. I was really surprised at the amount of detail and the use of actual 280z photos throughout. Most discs only allow you to access information for one model or model group. Before you even start messing with any manual, do a very close visual inspection of the wiring itself. Here's why: the Haynes manual is for Miatas from 1989 through 2015. But it appears the Chilton manuals are also made by Haynes, so I am wondering what the deal is. Be cautious with torque specifications in Clymer manuals.
Super condition and the info and quality is as good as jaknight says it is. Anyway, if you ever need printer manuals, check out this page There are a lot of simple and easy things you can do yourself to maintain your car in good running order. I know it sounds rather complicated, but it could be done. It covered a decent range of models and years, but they were actually very similar. Troubleshooting can be difficult at times. Maintenance is key to keeping a vehicle operational for an extended period of time. First and foremost, you, as the proud owner, have more skin in the game literally than does any mechanic.
See also: If you need assistance finding the right manual please call toll free 866 553-8116. Shade tree stuff - simple work is all I'd use them for. Alldata jumped out with the digital system and Mitchell followed. One point volunteered in the Haynes manual, however, really caught my attention. My only real gripe is they should have made it full color. Unfortunately, when I bought my latest ride, a new 1998 Yamaha V-Max, there was only the factory manual available. Now, with money spent and leisure time with coffee mug in hand, I feel wiser and smaller in the bank account.
Hasn't had much luck getting to publish proprietary information from some auto manufacturers. That is, shadetree mechanics who have been messing around with minor procedures and are looking to up their game. I can't vouch for the quality of the Haynes books, but the Chilton books were excellent back in the 1990s when I worked there. I'm pretty sure if I have to make a choice between the two, I'll ask someone who works in auto repair for their advice on that situation. I'll order mine for the '09 truck from Toyota as soon as it is delivered.
And you can get the one that the service department uses instead of the downloaded file if that is your preference. I think that it is so great that these manuals offer an accurate and comprehensive list of things to do. There isn't necessarily a step by step discussion. Go to There are many car repair tips, tricks, and books out there but most of it comes down to finding what works best for you. This seemed counter-intuitive to me but I did a little research and found that higher viscosity oil makes it difficult for a wet-clutch to squeeze the oil out from between the plates and that the clutch may indeed slip.