Was this review helpful to you? Our Epic Motorsports S54 cam tune works best with this package. Hold the sensor while moving a wrench across the tip. First thing we noticed: The car was incredibly dirty! Block it self being made of tougher stuff was perfect. Torque went from 240 ft-lbs up to 283 ft-lbs, an increase of 40-ish ft-lbs to the wheels! By leaving the cap in place, it gives you an easy visual verification of whether the end of the cam is rising equally to the caps at E4 and E6. We proceeded to start baseline runs. By watching the gap here and comparing it to the gaps at A3 and A5, you can verify that the cam does not hang up on the thrust surfaces. The stock S54 rocker arm is un-coated.
This signal is provided by camshaft position sensors which help synchronize fuel injection and ignition. Next steps are straigth forward, all remaining components are being mounted. . Adjust your tightening amounts at A3 and A5 to keeps all the gaps equal. I know it will seem redundant, but I will be using the exact same instruction wording for the intake cam.
New Schrick camshaft installed on intake side. Install them at E2 and E7, do not use the studs at cap E1. When a camshaft sensor fails, the check engine light will illuminate and a fault code will be stored. I will be doing repair myself 99% sure of this , ive done two head gaskets before on other cars, but without the complication of any adjustable valve timing. Soon as I opened the bonnet the heavens opened and it was peeing down so I did not take any pictures of the process sorry.
So it will be vanos next, then camshafts, still no decision on the camshaft press tool. Just make sure to scrape off all the Hondabond before installing your sexy K-tuned cover so that the o-ring can make a proper seal. The hubs are mounted, with the upgraded torx hub bolts. The last step is to install the wiring loom. Not only can you tune for more power, you can help prevent damage during a mild mechanical over-rev. They were only a little shy of those cylinders that had no failure.
We made short work, and before long had a chance to inspect for any damage. You set the each throttle valve compared to valve 1 by sliding the linkage over the axle, to let it open earlier or later. Do not work on your vehicle if you feel the task is beyond your ability. Now, I just have to replace the fan clutch that decided to die on the dyno…. Watch the gaps between the caps and the head as you proceed. Keep an eye on the E1 gap and compare it to the gaps at E4 and E6 until the cam is completely loose. The gap was causing the arms to flap around! Offcourse the piston rings are discarded and replace with new ones.
Pin 1: 12 battery volts. This sets the cam so that there is equal pressure on both sets of lobes. We did not found any obvious issue with the Vanos components, but since we had everthing open we did a full rebuild. When leaving a comment, please leave your vehicle information. A bit more than normal I suppose.
Anyway, back to the saga — after driving three hours south from New Jersey to Maryland, and arriving at , I waited for the M3 to be loaded into the dyno room, once she was loaded and strapped down, Frank remarked how clatter-y the engine sounded. Everly part of the car inside included was cover in a layer of fine sand. The red lead will be used to probe the electrical connector. Lay the camshaft into the cam journals as shown in the picture. And the inlet cam sensor looks like a mighty job to change as its hidden under the throttle bodies so all the air box system will have to be removed to gain any sort of access. By lifting and lowering the sensor once it was unbolted, voltage should be about 5 volts.
If you have a camshaft sensor fault code and your engine isn't running right, I suggest replacing the sensor before digging too deep. Next step was the cleaning and inspection of the pistons. Was this review helpful to you? Naturally, the only remaining item to help make this S54B32 sing even more, is moar air! Next up is mounting the camshafts. I removed the pollen filter and part of the scuttle panel which gives you more room to get down the back of the engine which is held in place by 3 twist clips and 5 torque headed bolts. The rest after this point, was easy. One end of the cam has a square flange. He loaded a different tuning file that should help the car deal with the overlapping cams, which took about 20 minutes.
All the while, feeling the sense of overwhelm from tackling the removal of camshafts from a perfectly fine 48K mile S54 motor. A good example is the engine bay, which was impressively dirty: Offcourse we began with a proper cleaning, followed by polish the car to regain the gloss the M3 deserves. By leaving the cap in place, it gives you an easy visual verification of whether the end of the cam is rising equally to the caps at A3 and A5. Pre-op — stock camshaft view. Virtually identical to the part it replaced. One end of the cam has a square flange. If you want to maximize the power available you need to change the camshafts.
No need for upgraded valve train. This means that the camshaft will snap free, possibly causing the cam cap and nuts can go flying, once the nuts are completely loose. The cylinderhead was cracked between cylinder 1 and 2. Normally we are not a huge fan of polished metal under the hood, but a polished S54 unit looks real good together with the S54 engine cover. Then, documenting the oil plate seals replacement process as I wait for parts. We show you how to find the sweet spot so your engine is a runner! The larger parts when in the parts washer: All the smaller parts went in the ultrasonic bath.